How To Get Good At Word Hunt Game Pigeon

Pigeons fall for decoys like prom queens fall for quarterbacks. Life-size dekes on swivel stands are the go-to impostors, but a ­spinning-wing teal decoy is essential to get the attention of high-flying pigeons. 'They come from a mile out, and a mile high,' says Hunt. 'They spot your spread, fold their wings and free-fall. They drop like rocks. Hunt for patterns, not words. Practice looking for common letter combinations and roots, which can help you quickly rack up points. A nugget like EAD, for example, can lead to BEAD, DEAD, HEAD, LEAD, MEAD, and READ. Pay attention to prefixes and suffixes. Other Nutritional Facts: Besides being good sources of lean protein, wild game is also a good source of iron, zinc, and B vitamins. Hunted or Farmed: Game meats that are farmed are still leaner and usually healthier than conventionally raised animals. These animals are often raised on small family farms, allowed to roam free, consume grass,.

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Whether as a casual event or as your next office team builder, a well-planned adult scavenger hunt can be just as fun of an event for grown-ups as it is for kids. While there’s no shortage of resources available online to help you organize a scavenger hunt for the latter, there’s less content out there when you’re trying to plan a game for your next social gathering for an older crowd. To help you out, we've prepared a list of some of our favourite adult scavenger hunt ideas!

We've added new pages containing scavenger hunt ideas for work-from-home teams. Create a GooseChase account to start running a virtual/remote team-building scavenger hunt through our app today!

If you're already using GooseChase to run your scavenger hunt, you can click the blue button below to add these missions to your account as a duplicate game. Still planning your scavenger hunt on paper? Click here to find out about how easy it is to plan your next event on the GooseChase platform!

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Adult Scavenger Hunt Idea Set 1: Take to the Streets


One distinct thing that makes an adult scavenger hunts more fun is the fact that (most!) participants are responsible enough to hop in a vehicle and cover more distance! The following ideas for scavenger hunt clues include our favourite 4-wheeled vehicles or the roads they are driven on. Please make sure to follow all traffic laws and make sure that all footage taken from from a moving vehicle are filmed by a passenger!

  • Clown Car - Take a photo fitting as many people as you can find into a standard 5-seat vehicle. Bonus points for each additional person not on your team!
  • Sparkle and Shine - Take a video of members of your team in a vehicle going through a car wash.
  • Abbey Road - Take a photo at a quiet street crossing of your team members recreating the Beatles’ famous album cover.
  • American Muscle - Take a photo of a Ford Mustang, a Chevrolet Camaro, or a Dodge Charger.
  • Squeaky Glass - Find a vehicle door that has a roll-up window handle, find and take a photo of a team member rolling up said window with the handle.

Adult Scavenger Hunt Idea Set 2: Draw on Participants’ Life Experiences


The longer combined total time on earth means adult scavenger hunt can include more interesting clues that recall participants’ past life experiences. Include these mission clues to encourage conversation and interaction among your participants as they discover hidden stories about each other while seeking out ways to complete the missions below!

  • Foreign Exchange - Take a photo of a bill or coin of any denomination of a foreign currency.
  • Esquire - Take a photo of somebody striking a professional pose in front an office wall featuring fancy looking degrees and professional certifications.
  • Living History - Take a photo with as many people as you can find who are born in different decades! Bonus points for each decade beyond two!
  • Fried Chicken - Take a photo of somebody showing off their tan (or burn) lines from a recent outdoor excursion in sunny weather!
  • They’re Adorable! - Take a photo of somebody sharing a printed photo of their child(ren) that they keep with them at all times.

Adult Scavenger Hunt Idea Set 3: Include Some Nostalgia From Decades Past


Baby boomers to millenials alike, we all love to reminisce about the years gone by and recall the “good old days”. See if your older participants remember these nostalgia-filled mission clues!

  • I’ll Be There For You - Take a video of your team members on a couch singing the Friends theme song. Claps must be included!
  • I’m Flying! - Find your own epic location and take a photo of two team members reenacting the famous Jack and Rose scene at the front of the Titanic.
  • Saturday Night Fever - Take a video of a team member performing their best disco moves. Bonus points for costumes!
  • One Small Step For Man… - Take a video of a team member quoting Neil Armstrong’s famous words as they step into the location of your choice.
  • Jazzercise - Take a video of a team member leading a jazzercise class. Bonus points for extra people or costumes!

Adult Scavenger Hunt Idea Set 4: Dig Around the Storage Room


We’re soon to be living in an age where a younger generation will not understand the meaning behind the term “rewind”, and will associate “Amazon” with the online store instead of the forest. Challenge your team members to find some of these technological relics too old to be able to run our own GooseChase App!

Hunt
  • Dial-Up - Find a computer or laptop running Windows XP or older. Take a photo of the Start Menu for proof!
  • Minesweeper Champ - Find and take a photo of a team member holding a computer mouse that has a roller ball on the bottom.
  • Rewind - Find and take a photo of a team member holding a video or tape Cassette. Any video or tape cassette will do.
  • Shiny Frisbees - Find an electronic device that has a slide-out disk tray, Take a photo of the tray extended.
  • Hello Moto - Take a photo of a team member holding a folding cell phone.

Check out our other scavenger hunt mission idea posts or our Edu specific Mission Library for classrooms!

What is GooseChase?

GooseChase is an online platform that helps organizers create and run digital scavenger hunt experiences for team building, learning, public engagement, or a variety of other events. Sign up and try creating a free recreational game, or contact us to learn more about our enterprise solutions!

No birds means no bird dog, so using live birds is a critical part of any training plan. Used properly, pen-raised birds and pigeons give you far more predictable reactions and results than wild birds.

By George Hickox

Simply owning a fine custom-fitted shotgun doesn’t necessarily make someone a good shooter. It takes practice, which requires shotshells. No shells + No practice = Lack of success. The same type of thing applies to gundogs. You can buy the best-looking pup from the “winningest” line of pointing, flushing or retrieving dogs there ever was, but if that pup doesn’t see birds and receive proper training, it will never become an excellent partner in the field. No birds + No training = Lack of success.

When it comes to effective dog training, guaranteeing the outcome is always a good goal. Choosing which species of birds to use and planning when and how to use them are important factors in formulating a sound training program. It is not simply a case of tossing out any old bird in any old location. It takes no more time to train effectively than to train ineffectively.

Wild birds are fantastic in helping develop integrity and honesty in a pointing dog and in teaching any breed how to be a more successful hunter. However, even if an owner lives in a wild-bird-rich environment—as I do in North Dakota in the summer/early fall and in Kansas in the late fall/winter—it is necessary to incorporate pen-raised birds and pigeons into the training routine. There is a right time and a wrong time to incorporate wild birds into a viable program.

How To Get Good At Word Hunt Game Pigeon Tn

In the early stages of introducing a dog to birds, it is important to guarantee success. If a dog, no matter what age, has not been exposed to birds and has not learned to continue questing, the dog likely will not be very successful at finding wild birds. Any wild bird you encounter has managed to beat foxes, coyotes, hawks and bobcats and to avoid becoming table fare. Such a bird is a survivor and is a tough adversary for the inexperienced dog. The inexperienced dog likely will be unable to beat this bird one on one. It is possible that a dog that continually fails in the early stages of learning will become a quitter and give up trying to produce birds. Additionally, a dog that is not finding feathered quarry may become interested in “trash scent,” such as that of squirrels, chipmunks, rats, rabbits, deer and so on. If every time the dog is in the hunting arena (in a training situation) it finds gamebirds, the dog is much less likely to focus on trailing trash scent.

This is why in the beginning I use pen-raised birds and put out enough birds to ensure that the dog will have bird contacts. The dog does not have to find every bird. It just has to find some. This way the dog begins expecting to find birds every time it is cut loose in the field. It believes that there are birds out there somewhere and makes an effort to find them. The dog will be rewarded for its effort and will be motivated to repeat what works.

Before exposing a dog to the flush, however, I try to ensure the outcome through preparation. I begin with a locked-wing pigeon. You can place a piece of Velcro around a pigeon’s body and wings or lock the wings together behind the bird’s body so the pigeon will not be able to fly. A pigeon is the best bird to use if the wings are to be locked, as the wings of quail and chukar do not stay locked as readily because of their shape.

How To Get Good At Word Hunt Game Pigeon Creek

I first tease the dog with the lockwing, and then I toss the pigeon a short distance. This is not a retrieving game. I simply want to ensure that the dog has no apprehension with a bird that cannot flap or flush as well as to develop prey drive. I break the bird introduction into steps in order to prevent a possible bird or flush problem. If the dog is not comfortable with birds and shows any apprehension, the training will be difficult if not impossible. I don’t like throwing the dog into a situation where a flush may scare it and give me something to fix. (And everything cannot always be fixed to the degree that more advanced training can be accomplished.)

Once I have determined that the dog has no apprehension with a lockwing pigeon, I introduce it to the flush. I like to dizzy a pigeon and toss the bird in full view of the dog. I restrain the dog until the pigeon is up and able to fly. This takes only a few seconds. I then release the dog. The dog should charge to the bird, and when the pigeon flushes, I want to see that the dog has no apprehension and eagerly chases the bird flying away. I do not restrain the dog from chasing at this point, as I want to develop intensity and bird drive.

Once the dog has demonstrated absolute confidence with the flush, I start doing quail walks. Initially I release enough quail (eight to 12) to guarantee that the dog will be successful in finding “some.” I want to use good-flying quail for this training. I will toss one bird for the dog to see into the area where I have released the other quail. Grass about six to eight inches high is ideal for this type of training. The cover is not so high that the dog can’t find the birds, but it is high enough that the dog has to learn to use its nose. In a very short time I begin releasing the quail where the dog does not see me putting them out. By this time the dog should be anxious to be released and go hunting. Pointing breeds hopefully will be demonstrating genetic point, and flushing breeds will be diving in like heat-seeking missiles to flush the birds.

How To Be Good At Word Hunt Game Pigeon

Once a pointing breed is questing and demonstrating flash points, I stop doing the quail walks. I don’t want the dog to catch birds before they flush or to run them down after they flush. It does not take many caught birds for the desire to point to radically deteriorate. I prefer that flushing breeds catch some birds, as I want to encourage an aggressive flush. Chukar can be used for these walks, but quail are normally cheaper and recall better, allowing them to be used repeatedly. I prefer bobwhite quail over other species, as bobwhites normally flush better. Pheasants are too big and too expensive to use for this type of training. And the pheasant is a track star and will run out of the country—not what I want at this time. I want the dog to succeed in finding birds.

For a flushing dog, I plant a field with enough birds to guarantee the dog is successful. I plant the birds to the left and right in the direction I will be walking. The dog will alternately find a bird on one side of me, and then on the subsequent cast on the other side. With birds planted in this manner, the dog will develop a quartering pattern, running in a windshield-wiper fashion. I use a combination of dizzied and lockwing pigeons for this exercise. Some birds will fly, and some will be caught. That way the dog will continue to develop a strong flush, because it thinks that the next time it may catch the bird. (Which is why this is not a drill for pointing breeds.) Pigeons are absolutely the best birds to use for this training.

Once pointing breeds are enthusiastically searching for birds, I do controlled drills to develop staunchness on point. I plant a scent bird (one that the dog will smell and point) and bring in the dog with a check cord downwind of the scent. I use a lockwing pigeon for my scent bird—and placing two or three together creates a stronger scent cone. Once the dog has established a point, even if briefly, I either have a helper in front release a fly-away pigeon from behind his back, or I launch a bird from a remote launcher. The thrower or remote launcher are about 10 yards away from the scent bird. I never place the scent bird (the bird the dog is pointing) in a launcher. It is more exciting for the dog if the bird comes up at a distance from the scent bird, so the dog does not anticipate where the bird will be coming from or when. There are also potential apprehension issues with a launcher being sprung directly in front of the dog. The dog is prevented from chasing with a check cord, and the scent bird remains in place, which helps the dog continue pointing. There is no e-collar or harsh corrections used at this stage; we are showing the dog that if it points, it gets to see birds. The command “Whoa” is not given at this time. The word “Whoa” is not incorporated until the dog has been generalized on the “Whoa” command and is standing fairly reliably on the scent bird.

Eventually I will launch pheasants and a covey of quail from multiple launchers. Once the dog is reliable and I have completed e-collar conditioning, I will take the dog into a hunting environment with released, good-flying quail. When the dog is on point, I walk in front and flush the bird or throw one from my bird bag in the same fashion that I did on the point drills. The next step is to cement the process in the wild-bird environment.

How To Get Good At Word Hunt Game Pigeon Forge

If I could use only one type of bird for training, it would be pigeons. All of the yard training and developing bird manners can be accomplished with pigeons before generalizing and proofing the dog in the hunting arena on wild birds.

For more training articles or information on the George Hickox School of Dog Training, visit www.georgehickox.com.